tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12559773117008284322024-03-13T02:55:25.096+00:00Le DeTour - 3 men on the JOGLEThis is the journal documenting the successful journey of 3 middle-aged blokes cycling from John O'Groats to Land's End the pretty way. The route takes in some of the islands off the West Coast of Scotland, and took 17 days, starting on 4th September 2014.
The blog contains route information, maps and photos as well as where we stayed so that anyone else who fancies replicating our trip can use the information. We hope you find it a fun and useful read!Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-84694529133787005212014-09-21T00:46:00.002+01:002014-09-22T09:04:51.588+01:00End of Detour<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OUrWhx5Q20IagCPTQebS64n0_CqeferniC425GP3B4LKR6rT8JPRuuG4dJSUi6vZSwNuK53x8m5i8qgqmwkpdUhYsVJ_kIK3-iXvR6RfNb-UTQHDqMU_m4g4686ukWwdx1lxE58SZslv/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OUrWhx5Q20IagCPTQebS64n0_CqeferniC425GP3B4LKR6rT8JPRuuG4dJSUi6vZSwNuK53x8m5i8qgqmwkpdUhYsVJ_kIK3-iXvR6RfNb-UTQHDqMU_m4g4686ukWwdx1lxE58SZslv/s1600/photo+5.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guess where we were today....?</td></tr>
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We had a comfortable night's sleep, and got up later than usual. We noticed the weather outside was foggy as we went down to enjoy large amounts of muesli and tea to fortify ourselves for the last stretch. Over breakfast, we had a good chat with a group including some Canadians, one of whom claimed responsibility for the good weather, as he'd last visited during the long, hot Summer of 1976! Preparing for the big finish, we were sent on our way by well-wishers from the breakfast group, and our hostess.<br />
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We got on the road by 9.45am, but had to put our lights on straight away due to the foggy conditions. First, we tried a short-cut which turned out to be a rough track straight into a farm yard, where we were met by friendly dog and a rather startled young farmer. He informed us somewhat pointedly that this was private property (though fortunately with no guns to back this up!), but then warmed up considerably as he questioned us and discovered what we were doing and revealed he was a keen distance cyclist himself, having done Land's End to Blackpool (End to Middle?). He eventually let us carry on, and we successfully rejoined the route close to the coast. At least we knew we were near the coast, but the fog meant that we couldn't see it, despite signs rather unfairly promising "scenic views". We realise that this means in 2 end to end trips, we still haven't managed to see this bit of coast, as it was foggy when we went the other way 10 years ago! We'll have to do it again in 2024 and see if it improves... Maybe with child support to carry luggage... Or would Pete and Roy like to rejoin the team to lend their support?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">On the road</td></tr>
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We carried on round through Hale, before turning North towards St. Ives. At this point, the mist lifted a little, so we had a clear run in, but still couldn't see the sea until we got to the viewpoint above the town. At this point John H was keen to carry on taking advantage of being on high ground and avoid going down into the town, but he was lured in with promises of Cornish pasties... We did manage to locate, and enjoy, a selection of Cornwall's finest pastry products, as we consulted the maps to work out the easiest road climb out of St. Ives. Route chosen and fortified, we set out. At this point John H discovered that he had been suckered as we rounded a corner after going along the northern bay sea front to be confronted by a wall of tarmac - a hill of at least 20%, and possibly 25% in places. JR and JC managed to struggle to the top (actually, it was a breeze, they say in retrospect - though that may have just been the heavy breathing). John H then had a problem with physics. His bar bag attachment had broken, so he'd stashed it in his rear pannier, and this probably contributed to his bike attempting to perform wheelies at this point. He got off, had a think, and got back on with a new, forward crouching stance to put more weight on the front wheel, looking like a performing frog in distress. Thus positioned, he eventually joined the other 2, who were by now waiting in hysterics at the top. JH arriving at the top, "If that was the gentle slope, I'd hate to see the steep one" (amazingly polite in the circumstances, possibly due to the @!**s being used further down the slope).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii7nP5_SrNaAJwYLLrFWFFJ4_OBPiZIPRe7zdDjwIFk11vWQdm3ZrhV6EDc3f7cuFQb7BVwL-rT_x7dRivxAqE6QGXxo3ReBYaqYQpeL-pB_x9twX2-uz4XoJLn6wp2K5uzeabg2LcNqe/s1600/photo-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii7nP5_SrNaAJwYLLrFWFFJ4_OBPiZIPRe7zdDjwIFk11vWQdm3ZrhV6EDc3f7cuFQb7BVwL-rT_x7dRivxAqE6QGXxo3ReBYaqYQpeL-pB_x9twX2-uz4XoJLn6wp2K5uzeabg2LcNqe/s1600/photo-2.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tin mine looming out of the mist</td></tr>
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Climbing out took us back into the fog, which meant that the area's famed tin mines loomed out of the mist in wonderfully eerie shapes as we passed. We carried on round unable to enjoy the views, eventually arriving in St. Just, to enjoy the 17% climb into the town, (JH says he did enjoy it - as it was a doodle in comparison to the previous one - which was maybe what inspired him to pop into the local coop to buy a bottle of champagne, quickly stashed in JR's pannier). With just one more down and up it was relatively flat all the way to the finish, which we hit at 2.05pm - just 5 minutes after our eta. We were surprised to be greeted by the gate-keeper as he cleared the way for us, when he said, "You'll know the way from here. I gather you've done it before". He'd had a chat with Tracey (wifiepedia No1), who was waiting at the finish for us, with JR's sons - Ash and Rowan. They greeted us enthusiastically as we crossed the line, plying us with more champagne and a carrot cake decorated with... bananas!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Celebration Cake</td></tr>
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We finished the obligatory pictures at the signpost and more Cornish pasties, before cycling back to Penzance in a leisurely fashion, for a slap up meal and 1920's Jazz in a 500 year old hotel that JR's family are staying in.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pictures at the signpost.</td></tr>
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It's finished!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwgi0UbdImnkCJAu5uLvs9SDbxR248cImMCNKbiucL4BPU8QtAMBCpJ6kxDEakmec0bXHwz4tU2gCP97XZRsOQ95W9H8qqFEsw2oTeulc39RYPFaenVusGXJ9je1jMY8SAyqwT9df5fdG/s1600/photo+3-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwgi0UbdImnkCJAu5uLvs9SDbxR248cImMCNKbiucL4BPU8QtAMBCpJ6kxDEakmec0bXHwz4tU2gCP97XZRsOQ95W9H8qqFEsw2oTeulc39RYPFaenVusGXJ9je1jMY8SAyqwT9df5fdG/s1600/photo+3-2.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Cheers! Thanks to Katie and Marc for the champagne.</td></tr>
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On the train on the way home after the ride, John H was moved to poetry.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">End of Detour - a poetic epilogue.</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span></div>
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Our epic journey is now finally at an end. </div>
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Cycling from John O'Groats to Lands End. </div>
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Three old(ish) men on the JOGLE. </div>
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To some we made minds boggle. </div>
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Because LEJOG we had already done. </div>
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Le Detour we called it and we won. </div>
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JRs navigation kept us, mostly, on track </div>
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For good route finding we did not lack!</div>
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Fog, mist, black clouds, rain, wind and hail. </div>
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But with fortune mostly sun did prevail. </div>
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In to Scottish headwind at the start. </div>
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But lucky tail wind mostly from Tarbert. </div>
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From YHA and wood hut to bunkhouse. </div>
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From hotel and pub to John's house. </div>
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Calorie and banana intake certainly rather a lot. </div>
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But also occasional welcome beer and whisky tot. </div>
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Bikes served us well and kept us right. </div>
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Except chain, gear cable and light. </div>
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At end, with our countryside we remain really smitten. </div>
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As we truly conquered the length of Britain</div>
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Deer, dolphins, red squirrels, seals and stoat - wildlife abounds. </div>
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Raptors, snakes, slow worms, mice, even otter sounds. </div>
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Loch, lake, glen, dale, river and brook. </div>
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"Spectacular" scenery wherever we look. </div>
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Tumultuous peaks and mountains to top. </div>
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Geology also abounded at every outcrop. </div>
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We rode it all, over 11 hundred miles. </div>
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No wonder when finished we couldn't hold back smiles. </div>
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Moreover great to be with best friends throughout. </div>
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The joy of cycling left in no doubt. </div>
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At end cake and champagne to greet us. </div>
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We never let any of those hills and valleys defeat us!</div>
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John H</div>
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21 September 2014</div>
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Final thoughts<br />
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JH - concludes that Britain is still a green and pleasant land (he's had a generous post-ride whisky)<br />
JC - concludes that it's time for bed.<br />
JR - says so long, and thanks for all the bananas!<br />
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Stats for the day</div>
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Distance 36</div>
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Average speed 11.2 (max 35)</div>
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Total climb 817 m</div>
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Energy 2035 cals</div>
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Bananas</div>
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JC 3</div>
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JH 2</div>
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JR 1</div>
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-57223049933965266372014-09-20T07:55:00.001+01:002014-09-20T07:55:33.922+01:00Cornwall at last!Day 15 Friday 19th Sept<br />
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This morning we awoke to strong winds, fortunately easterly, and a grey overcast sky. After an delicious breakfast, we were away by 8:45 am. The first 3 miles were all down hill on an excellent road with a tail wind, so we thoroughly enjoyed that. Then we were into the up and down rhythm that would see us through the rest of the day. We very quickly passed our last county border; Cornwall greeted us just outside Launceston. In contrast to 10 years ago, we found a quiet relatively flat route into the town, with splendid views of the castle, bringing us out at the northern edge right next to a Spar, where we bought food for the day. We had some mini pasties as a minor celebration of both being in Cornwall and of passing 1000 miles (see yesterday's post). </div>
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First sight of Bodmin Moor</div>
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Then we were off with a climb out of the town and on to Egloskerry. The road stayed relatively high, so not too much rise and fall for a bit. We joined the A395 for a short and unpleasant stretch, turning off at Hallworthy where we almost literally bumped into the JOGLE riders we had met in Ludlow (see day 12). Had a brief chat and worked out that they will be likely to finish at a similar time to us, so we'll be on the lookout for them at LE.</div>
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On the edge of Bodmin Moor</div>
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The loop of road that we then took, put us right on the shoulder of Bodmin moor. We had a great view of some of the peaks, but also over an expanse of relatively flat moorland. There were sheep and loose horses, as well as horses being ridden. Part of the road went through an old set of giant runways, both of concrete tile construction. Again, with a tail wind, we sped easily over this section. </div>
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After the wilderness, back in to the melee of the A39 for another short and unpleasant stretch to Camelford where we took a quieter road. This was a route that took the high ground, with views over the Camel valley, a strange road that didn't really go through anywhere. At this stage we were looking for a suitable place for lunch. After some time we decided that there must be a tax on benches, 'cos we hadn't seen one for about 20 miles!<br />
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We eventually stopped for lunch in Ruthernbridge, at the bridge in the centre of the village over a small gurgling stream. No bench here either, so we sat on the wall of the bridge, usefully graded in height, for long legs at one end to short legs at the other - just right for our group!<br />
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After a while, John C was demonstrating to me a problem he was having with his gear change, when the cause of the problem became apparent when the gear cable snapped. The broken end was frayed, suggesting that it had been on the way out for a while. Unfortunately the broken head had wedged itself in the gear mechanism, so we spent about 15 minutes getting it out. There was a small cheer when we finally removed the offending item. Fortunately John C had a spare cable, although I think it was made for an extremely long tandem, since it stretched most of the way across the road! We fitted it and were ready to head off, delayed by only half an hour. Not quite Tour de France mechanic speed, but not bad in the circumstances.<br />
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Roadside repairs on John C's bike</div>
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The offending snapped cable head</div>
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JR can't bear to watch as apprentice John C finds out how </div>
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long his brake cable is!</div>
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We'd stopped for lunch in the middle of one of the most up and down parts of the whole journey, on exactly the same route that we had taken 10 years ago. When we came down the particularly steep descent near Nanastallon, John H was full of reminiscences about the joy and satisfaction he had had when doing it as a climb previously (I might be telling tales there though...).<br />
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We went through St Wenn and then on to St Columb Major, where we raided the shop for more food and water (the first time we'd had to buy extra water during the day on the whole trip, showing how hot it was and how much hard work it was today).<br />
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Carrying on, the day now became a bit of a slog as we moved into early evening. A look at the maps suggested some route changes; we just had a couple of extra miles on the A3075 to do and then we could cut through to our destination, saving a few miles and a fair bit of climbing. Whilst coming up a particularly steep climb on this road, John C had a bad gear change and couldn't get his left foot out of his cleat quickly enough, so toppled over. Finally we found a use for the high banks of the roads in this area! John C ended up propped up at an angle at the edge of the road. After a brief struggle, he was up and on with the climb with only his dignity slightly bruised.<br />
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Eventually we made it to our destination, again rolling up with lights on at about 7pm. We're staying at Illogan YHA, which is a bunkhouse hostel. The lady who runs it was very pleasant, chatty and helpful. We ended up having an excellent meal at the local pub before returning here to write the blog.</div>
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ONE MORE DAY TO GO :-)<br />
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On the road - what do we talk about<br />
We obviously spend a lot of time together on the road, and whilst there is a lot to be done during the day (traffic, food, navigation, food, the condition of the road ahead, food etc), we do also spend some of the quieter moments in general conversation. It might be about something we've just seen - there are some fantastic place names and all sorts of conjecture is possible with places such as 'Unthank' (near Carlisle - suggestions welcome) or Portgate (some scandal with Port happened there perhaps?). We found ourselves involved in the Scottish referendum quite a bit in the early part of the ride, especially with all of the YES notices around the highlands. Sometimes we have some serious discussions about, for example; the state of the world, the country, whether wind generators are a good or bad thing, the finer points of Jeremy Clarkson's popularity. Although we don't agree on all things, it's always in good humour, and there is generally a lot of laughter and leg-pulling going on.<br />
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Favourite moments from yesterday for all of us was the Meldon viaduct without a doubt.<br />
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Quote of the day<br />
On hearing that the official traditional riding distance for a JOGLE is 874 miles, in the context of our 1000+ miles, John C said "you must have gone wrong a lot JR", referring to my navigational skills. (I knew we should have turned left and not right out of John O'Groats.)<br />
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Stats for the day<br />
Distance 78<br />
Average speed 11.5 (max 38)<br />
Total climb 1735 m<br />
Energy 4387 cals<br />
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Bananas<br />
JC 6<br />
JH 5<br />
JR 4<br />
We cleaned out the shop in St Columb Major!<br />
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-29762216399697190902014-09-18T23:51:00.002+01:002014-09-19T00:19:35.704+01:00Murky day in Devon<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 14, Thursday 18 th Sept</div>
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The weather today has been very humid and murky; to the extent that we've struggled with photos. It has also made the cycling a bit uncomfortable, we have been going along feeling decidedly dank today; normally you get cooled by the breeze as you go along but not so today. Not that we can complain about the weather, still only one day of serious rain since we started and today was another with a good, helpful tail wind.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">John H eating blackberries at Bloom Hill</span></td></tr>
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We started out from Bridgwater relatively late after deciding to wait for the traffic to clear, so we were able to be a bit more relaxed than usual getting ready. On the road at 9:40 am we made steady to rapid progress further along the A38. The only time we came off this road was In Taunton, where our route took us on to the Bridgwater and Taunton canal. This was a delightful experience, revising John H's opinion of the place. The surface was good and we went through pleasant suburbs, past the cricket ground (game in progress) and in to the centre in pleasant, tranquil conditions. We eventually had to give up this pleasant progress and transfer back to the noisy, busy A38. Beyond Taunton we crossed in to Devon; quite a moment actually as we suddenly realised that we only had one more county left.</div>
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Cycling down the Bridgwater-Taunton canal </div>
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We finally broke away from the A38 just about at its end (we'd done almost it's entire length from Bristol, starting the previous day) and headed through Cullumpton. From here our route changed character, being much more and steeply in and down, through steeply banked narrow winding lanes.</div>
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We lunched at the pretty village of Bradninch after an impressively steep descent. We all remembered stopping here 10 years ago. We were immediately greeted by the local publican offering to fill our water bottles. After a pleasant half an hour, we then headed on, crossing the river Exe and then on to the village of Bow. At various stages the sun tried to break through, but although it became warmer, we only ever had brief glimpses through the murk.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Railway route nr. Okehampton </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Country lane on the last stretch towards Okehampton</span></td></tr>
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As we headed ever closer to Okehampton, our ultimate destination, John H 'bonked'. Now, before anyone gets upset about my unnecessarily crude language, I should point out that this is the official cyclists version of 'hitting the wall'. John had run out of immediate energy. We stoked him with some flapjack and other bits and pieces, before continuing. Finally we rolled into Okehampton. But our Travelodge was about 2.5 miles further SW along the frantically busy A30. Fortunately we had picked out a route that used an old railway line. Slightly trepidously, since our previous experiences with such routes had been a bit mixed (see Day 10!), we followed the signs to this route (The Lydford Line, or NCR27). Inevitably this involved a serious climb up through the posh side of Okehampton. Eventually we were there, and it turned out to be the 'best surface ever'. Smooth, wide tarmac, and well labelled too. So off we headed, enjoying a view of Okehampton castle on the way out. But the best was yet to come; we reached the Meldon viaduct, a high span over deeply incised land, and giving splendid views of Dartmoor and the Meldon dam. From there it was a short way to our Travelodge. And then the sun finally came out ...!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Meldon Viaduct</td></tr>
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Dartmoor from the Meldon Viaduct</div>
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View of Dartmoor from outside our rooms</div>
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One thousand up, or is it?</div>
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Depending on whose trip computer we use we have either done just 1000 miles together, or about 990 miles. Either way, by mid morning tomorrow we will definitely have reached the magic 1k since we left London. Quite an achievement we think, but we'll wait until we have finished the entire trip before we celebrate. It's interesting to think that it is longer than many peoples entire JOGLE / LEJOG.</div>
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One day out, for some</div>
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When we checked in here at the Travelodge in Okehampton, we were told by the receptionist that he sees a lot of cyclists staying here. Apparently many of them do the trip from here to Lands End in one day. At first we were a bit taken aback, but then we realised for a lot of the cyclists doing a JOGLE, they do the ride supported (ie their baggage is carried for them, as it was when we did the LEJOG 10 years ago) and they do much of the route on main roads. We're very happy to be doing the scenic version, as there are so many things we would have missed; for example today there would have been no Bridgwater to Taunton canal and no Meldon viaduct. Lands End from here is a pretty impressive achievement, however, so we applaud those that manage to do that.</div>
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Shorts returned</div>
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Those of you that have been following the blog for some time may remember that John C left his two favourite pairs of shorts (I'm still working on finding out their names) in Oban youth hostel. Well done to the staff there, as they have now turned up at home. It's very rare for someone's shorts to finish the journey first though!! </div>
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It's official, we're bottomless pits</div>
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So said the waitress tonight, who cannot believe how much food we are eating; admittedly we have had two mains each instead of a starter and a main. "You've had as much as most people have in a week", she reckons .... We're about to have pudding.....</div>
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Stats of the day</div>
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Distance 66 miles</div>
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Average speed 11.3 (max 38)</div>
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Total climb 1537 m</div>
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Energy 3772 cals</div>
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Bananas </div>
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JC 4</div>
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JH 2</div>
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JR 2</div>
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That's the most bananas since yesterday! (just checking to see who reads this bit:-)</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-48793812410553876782014-09-17T21:44:00.000+01:002014-09-18T23:43:36.116+01:00"How to get out of Wales with three bicycles"<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 13, Wednesday 17th Sept - Two weeks since we set out from home!</div>
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We started the day at John H's house, having breakfast whilst the kids got ready for school. Sensibly, we'd left the bikes loaded in the Defender, so when we were all ready to go, it was a case of replacing the baggage and stowing ourselves in the various 'spaces' between. An uneventful motorised journey completed to return to last night's finishing point on the road, we unloaded and reassembled the bikes and their various bits of kit and headed off with Fiona's best wishes in to what we expected to ba a long hard day.</div>
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At the start of the day, the Three Desperadoes about to leave Ross on Wye</div>
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In a repeat of the previous evening, we started the day following the Wye river, before a severe climb out into the Forest of Dean, briefly, before then descending to the Wye again, rejoining at Redstream where we stopped for second breakfast. Here John H did a quick shop so we had some basics for lunch, including a locally baked loaf (which proved to be delicious). Then we spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon winding through the sun-dappled Wye gorge, surrounded by trees and glimpses of glorious scenery, houses perched high and very little troubled by traffic. We stopped briefly to admire Tintern Abbey, before eventually climbing out of the gorge and heading towards the Severn Estuary. We passed Chepstow Racecourse and grazed the outskirts of Chepstow itself. </div>
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Old bridge at Redbrook in the Forest of Dean - old tin mining area </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">The two Johns enjoying the sun dappled Wye valley.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">John H passes Tintern Abbey, Wye valley.</span></td></tr>
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Perversely, we were now following signs towards the M48! As we neared, we picked up the cycle route to the Severn Bridge. Finally, the bridge loomed before us, at which point the two Johns, bewitched no doubt by the sight before them, started up the hard shoulder of the motorway itself, instead of following the signposted route that was also de-marked by red Tarmac and big painted bicycle signs. Fortunately I spotted their mistake and was able to call them back; rescued by 'Dad' apparently (I like to think this is a fond reference to my natural air of common sense and responsibility and by no means a suggestion of any greater apparent age than them ....)</div>
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John C joins the slip road of the M48 !</div>
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We thoroughly enjoyed crossing the Severn Estuary on the 'old' bridge, offering great views all round under clear skies. It was astonishing and slightly unnerving to feel how much the structure vibrates and moves in response to the heavy lorry traffic. We finished the crossing and then followed NCR4 through the countryside towards Bristol; a great route only slightly confused by the multiple iterations of the route!</div>
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The Johns on the Severn bridge.... making use of the free wifi!</div>
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We ended up at Blaise Castle country park, where we had lunch before winding through the delights of Coombe Dingle; a deep-cut mini-gorge, filled with green, through suburban Bristol. The only down side to this route was that, although used by many cyclists, the stile at the end / start is too small for laden bikes. </div>
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Lost in subterranean Bristol</div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">JR and John have different but equally inadequate methods, of negotiating their way off the cycle route in Bristol</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> .</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Method 1</td></tr>
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We ended up at the Avon Gorge, passing under the Clifton suspension bridge, before negotiating a complex route over and under the roadways around the place where the A4 crosses the Avon river. We had a bit of a shock to the system when we tried to join the A38 at a gyratory; then the road itself was ridiculously busy for the first few miles, only quietening once we passed the airport. We eventually stopped in Churchill at the Churchill Inn for some long cool drinks and bowls of excellent soup (except they messed up the order and John H made do with a banana). </div>
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Then we blasted on in the growing dusk, still 20+ miles to do. With quieter roads and a tail wind, we coursed along at ~20mph for a while. Lights on, we covered the last few miles at a gentler pace, extra vigilant in the traffic around Bridgwater itself as the driving became more impatient and less considerate. We arrived finally at 7:45 pm, our longest day yet completed, ravenous (no, really, more than usual) and tired; an interesting set of competing bodily demands. Of course hunger won out!</div>
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Forgotten tail</div>
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Something I forgot to note from day 11 (please refer to day 12). We were going quite fast on a nice downhill section whilst winding thought the countryside. John C was leading with me not far behind. Suddenly there was a blur of fur as a squirrel (grey) tried to dash across the road, but hadn't reckoned with our quiet bikes. It ended up almost making it between John C's two wheels - there was no way he could take any avoiding action, it was all too fast - but got its tail run over by the back wheel. After a shocked moment, it shook itself down and carried on, apparently unharmed ....</div>
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West is best</div>
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We've just realised that our furthest point west of the trip, assuming we complete, will have been Tarbert on Harris (6.8 deg. W, day 3) and not Land's End (5.7 deg. W)</div>
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Stats of the day:</div>
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Distance 83 miles - longest yet</div>
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Average speed 12.1 (max 40.2)</div>
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Total climb 1236 m</div>
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Energy 4267 cals</div>
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Bananas</div>
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JC 3 </div>
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JR 3</div>
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One of our highest banana counts of the trip, reflecting the very long day.</div>
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-45834636919819453362014-09-16T23:24:00.000+01:002014-09-17T21:44:07.176+01:00Wye oh Wye<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 12 Tuesday 16th Sept</div>
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One of the things that makes the blog particularly difficult is remembering what happened during the day. Fairly basic stuff you would think (especially for someone of my age, no doubt some of you are thinking) and not necessarily something to make a fuss about. But it is more than the odd 'senior moment'. We're all finding that it is very difficult to even remember the day of the week, let alone what we did where and who said what. It's probably, we think, because our brains are fully occupied, processing the new things and places we are seeing, whilst all the time dealing with the business of cycling (checking the road ahead for potholes, looking at the traffic, navigation, assessing the latest pain, taking in the views) all this while coping with the never-ending craving for fooood. </div>
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During a normal day, we're up early to pack and sort our bags (always difficult as we have such a small amount of space to deal with), then eating breakfast, before cycling. Generally we'll be on the road for 10 to 12 hours, then when we've arrived we need to shower (!) then probably do some hand washing of kit before heading out for more food. By the time we've done that it is often after 10pm and we're all ready for sleep, but will generally sit down and go over our maps looking at tomorrow's route. At some point in all this, I need to squeeze writing the blog. So, it's all pretty full-on.</div>
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Shropshire rural road rolls into the distance</div>
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Today when we set out it was foggy and cold, so it was lights and reflective gear. We had heard the news that another JOGLE rider had been killed on the roads in Scotland, so we were feeling a bit low. The fog was patchy and beginning to lift as we flitted through the Shropshire country side, giving the whole landscape an ephemeral character, with brief glimpses of hills, ridges and trees. We rolled in to Church Stretton, where John H quickly identified a Cafe that we had stopped in 10 years ago; it's now called Ginger and Green. So we went and had an excellent second breakfast!</div>
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Coffee house in Church Stretton where we also stopped in 2004</div>
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When we came out, the world had changed! Blue skies greeted us (we'd only been in the cafe for half an hour, honest). So after a quick application of sun cream, we were off, now able to see the beautiful hilly scenery around us. We went straight in to a steep climb up towards Hope Bowdler, then meandered towards Wenlock Edge which was to be our next challenge. We had a slight navigational incident as we turned off towards Hatton then realised that we were actually looking for Harton. One wrong consonant could have led us seriously astray. A case of in-consonant navigation...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">JR with Gaer Stone in the background on Hope Bowdler Hill</span></td></tr>
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Then, as we started the climb, we noticed a sign at the side of the road "Road closed for 3 days for resurfacing from 16/9/14". Today? Once again we had been lucky with road works as it looked like the work team had not got there.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">The climb was tough, but on the other side we plunged down into the most gorgeous valley, deeply incised and lined with trees, with scattered settlements that seemed to only have allowed buildings of character to be built; a real oasis of quiet and green. We rolled through this feeling better about life with every rotation of our wheels. Then we were out and moving on towards Ludlow, where we stopped for food (surprise!). Outside the shops we bumped into a couple of younger blokes who were also on a JOGLE; supported by the partner of one of them. We compared notes and swapped tails before wishing each other good luck. May see them again on Saturday as they are also hoping to finish then. From what the support said, by then they too may be carrying their own stuff (for if we old'ns can do it, surely they can too?....).</span></div>
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Meeting another JOGLE rider in Ludlow</div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">We had an excellent run out of Ludlow, boosted by bananas, sunny weather and good roads, making Leominster in what seemed like very short time. There, we followed signs to a picnic site next to the Priory that didn't exist, so ended up using a well placed bench at the Priory itself for a very large (too large infact) lunch, finishing off lots of bits and pieces. unlike Ludlow, our exit from Leominster was a bit sluggish, but we eventually settled in to steady progress through rural Hertfordshire, rich in agriculture and endowed with many magnificent trees, particularly oaks, their distal perspectives enhanced by a slight mistyness from the heavy, humid atmosphere. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">10 miles from our destination, at Mordiford, we stopped at a Pub for a nice cooling lime and lemonade, much needed, and then carried onwards over more hills to our destination at the services at the end of the M50, just short of Ross on Wye, where were due to meet John H's wife to be picked up. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">We had time for coffees and a hot chocolate before Fiona arrived. Then began the business of fitting the three of us, our bikes and kit into one Landrover Defender. With a bit of imagination and push we managed it and were off to enjoy the splendid and generous hospitality of John H's family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">Quote of the day. John H on arriving at our destination: "if we went through Mordiford, which is on the Wye, and arrived at Ross on Wye, which is also on the Wye, then how come we just went over all those hills</span></div>
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Best bits</div>
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JH the rural splendour of Shropshire and Herefordshire</div>
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JC we had an excellent run out of Ludlow; the road had just the right amount of up and down, not too steep, to allow us to maintain speed.</div>
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JR going through the hidden beauty of Hope Dale on the southern side of Wenlock Edge.</div>
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Stats for the day</div>
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Distance 64 miles</div>
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Average speed 12.2 (max 35.1)</div>
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Total climb 1300 m</div>
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Energy 3531 cals</div>
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Bananas</div>
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JC 3</div>
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JH 2</div>
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JR 2</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-52038272222574641662014-09-15T21:41:00.000+01:002014-09-16T11:52:01.553+01:00The salt of the earth, a big lift and a bigger coincidence<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 11 Monday 15th Sept</div>
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We had decided not to leave too early from Wigan to let the traffic ease off. So we had a relaxed breakfast before leaving at 9:30 with a light spray of rain in sunshine. We took a main road route out, heading south on A573. Our plan seemed to work as it was never too busy, so we made good progress through town after town, only really passing through proper countryside once (the sound of birds singing was notable here) before reaching Warrington. Here we went for a bit of Garmin navigation, so headed on a route that zigzagged through the centre and out, crossing the Mersey and Manchester Ship Canal n the process. </div>
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Then we finally got off the main roads and were soon wending our way through the Cheshire countryside; agricultural with scattered dispersed villages. We quickly came to the Anderton Lift; this is a Victorian structure designed to move canal boats from the higher Trent and Mersey canal down to the Weaver Navigation, now restored to full operation. I had had the privilege of using this on a canal holiday a couple of years ago with family, but for the two Johns it was their first sighting. </div>
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The Anderton Boat Lift, built in 1875</div>
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The team at the Anderton Lift - using some tricks from Lord of the Rings</div>
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Then onwards through Cheshire. At one point we went past huge piles of salt, presumably from one of the mines in the area. Otherwise it was steady progress through pleasant countryside. Bumping into Paul and Isobel Langton (see more below from John H) was an amazing coincidence.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">The team negotiate a section of NCR 5 </span></td></tr>
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We passed through Northwich, Nantwich, Whitchurch and Wem, then headed on main roads due south towards Shrewsbury. For most of the day we cycled in patchy sunshine, intense enough that we took advantage of the shade of a Millenium Oak when we stopped for lunch. But an ominous black cloud seemed to chase us for much of the afternoon and we were briefly scattered with heavy rain drops. But in the end we came into Shrewsbury dry. The town looked fascinating with it's red sandstone castle and wooden beamed houses, but it was late and we were keen to arrive before needing lights, so we pressed through to the southern side, where our Travelodge awaited.</div>
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A bit short and dry today, but it was a day of making progress. Day 12 looks like being a tough one, and we will be following much of the original LEJOG route. Ross on Wye is the target for the day, a deviation from the original plan as we are to be picked up by John H's wife to spend the night in his house. It will be a relief to do a big wash before our laundry composts in the panniers.</div>
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Evening sun breaks through the black clouds which had followed us all day</div>
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Anecdote of the day</div>
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From John H: In North Shropshire we turned a corner of a remote lane and were greeted by two horse riders. Surprise! It was Paul and Isobel Langton! We were all amazed by the coincidence. Paul and Isobel kindly accommodated us for a leg of the 2004 LEJOG ride, as well as some other occasions since. By another coincidence John H had tried to txt Paul a couple of days ago but had found his mobile number had changed and his old number was now used by somebody else (a complete stranger) who returned the txt by wishing us all the best for the ride! We worked out that if we had been 1 or 2 minutes earlier on the road we would have missed Paul and Isobel entirely.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Bumped into Paul & Isobel (almost literally) when they were out for a ride,<br />totally unplanned</span></td></tr>
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Quote of the day</div>
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John H on arrival at Shrewsbury "I'm a lot better on three bananas"</div>
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Taday's stats</div>
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Distance 78 miles</div>
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Average speed 12.2 (max 30.9)</div>
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Climb 936 m</div>
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Energy 3831 cals</div>
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Favourite bits</div>
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JC: finally finding an open WC in Wem at the third increasingly desperate attempt ..... Eating enough to fuel 3831 cals - we'll leave the rest to you ...</div>
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JH: Anderton lift, a fantastic example of Victorian ingenuity - real engineering</div>
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JR: revisiting several of the canals that I've been on over the last few years</div>
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Bananas</div>
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JC 3</div>
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JH 3</div>
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JR 2</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-47380915702134793902014-09-14T23:15:00.000+01:002014-09-15T09:29:03.667+01:00Tree mendous cycle paths and other stories<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
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Day 10 Sun 14th Sept</div>
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We spent a lot of today's route off-road on what proved to be an eclectic mix of surfaces. This was in an attempt to get through an area of the country increasingly full of towns, cities and roads. A far cry from our days in the highlands where we could go for miles without seeing another soul. Some of my concerns about the day were bourne out. Off-road routes, even if they are part of major NCR (national cycle routes), can be poorly surfaced, inconsistently labelled and in some cases far worse than being on the road. We saw all of this today and more!</div>
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Our bikes prop up the bar at Whoop Hall</div>
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After breakfast, we retrieved our bikes from their luxury accommodation and got on the road. The day started cool and overcast as we headed towards Lancaster by a direct and rather good road across rolling countryside at the edge of the Pennines. As we came into the outskirts of the town, we picked up the Lancaster canal at the impressive Lune aqueduct, then down onto an excellent cycle route along the banks of the Lune itself. This took us right through the town and out the other side, including a brief stop for food where we had a nice chat with a cycling lady who had done a Lands End to Lancaster cycle ride. Definitely an example of how to do off road routes here. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Lune aqueduct nr. Lancaster</span></td></tr>
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On the way through we saw lots of city regeneration. Here, John C could not resist a run around a BMX park on his fully laden bike, until his front panniers popped off that is. John H was finally mollified after the Stornoway incident (see day 3!). Little did we know that we would all need some of these skills later.....</div>
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John C plays on the BMX course in Lancaster until his pannier came loose!</div>
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The route merged with a disused railway and carried on down the coast to Conder Green, where I took the team on a brief detour for some excellent views of the coast (not a navigational error, honest)! We then continued on good roads, never too busy, but with noticeably less patient drivers. We crossed the A6 into Garstang, where we had a lunch stop, and then on, briefly along the A6 (which we had used for a lot of the route 10 years ago and resolved to avoid as much as possible on this one) before getting back onto quiet back roads. We were very conscious that we were making good progress south. Coming into the outskirts of Preston we tried to pick up the canal side route, but had difficulty initially before happening on a way on by accident. Here I took the guys on another detour, this time to see a short lock staircase. This canal side route was, however, not so good, having a rough surface, so we were quite pleased to come off it. By now we were using iPad navigation to deal with the complexity of the route and found ourselves getting through Preston quite effectively. We had a brief chat with a bloke who wished us luck given that the ring road came through the town centre!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">JR enjoying the run from Kirby Longsdale to Lancaster</span></td></tr>
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We were heading to pick up NCR55 which would provide, we hoped, a backbone to our route for the rest of the day. As we headed towards its start I took the guys on another detour for views of a park.... Eventually we found the start, which was very encouraging as it took us across the river on a high viaduct then on to a tree-lined run across open countryside. Perfect! </div>
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Great cycle path south if Preston - but it soon got hard going</div>
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But all good things must come to an end and it wasn't long before we were zigzagging along short bits of quiet road, up and off pavements and across side roads all whilst keeping a look out for the next sign. We ended up going through a country park, which was nice, before we briefly abandoned and headed down on the road again, fortunately quiet on a Sunday afternoon. We had a stop for hot chocolate where JR finally atoned for chocolategate! Then in one final go on NCR55, we joined the tow path to the Leeds and Liverpool canal. This was an excellent tarmacked surface which had unfortunately been laid on very rough ground, resulting in us and the bikes getting a bit of a pummelling. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">John H negotiates a stretch along the Leeds Liverpool canal before really<br />going off road ...</span></td></tr>
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We left the canal at Adlington supposedly to join a disused railway route. No sign of signs. Then we came across a young man, possibly slightly the worse for the can of beer he had, but with a bicycle. We asked if he knew of a cycle route and he did. Following his directions, we headed down a grassy bank then along a dirt track (this is where the BMX skills came in handy), up a very steep stony track before getting onto what was indeed our route; NCR55 signs confirmed it. It was as if they were trying to hide it. This stretch could have been very good, with a bit of care and a good surface. We were lucky it was dry as we could see that it would be a mud bath in the wet. The final ignominy was when we came across a fallen tree right across the route. We could just squeeze past by going in to the ditch. That was it, we'd had enough of route 55! As soon as we could it was on to the roads with a smooth run in to Wigan with no further problems.</div>
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Our "off-road" route is blocked south of Chorley</div>
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Quote of the day, nicked from breakfast on Monday:</div>
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John C on being reminded that it was an all-you-can-eat breakfast (a very dangerous thing with us): "I think I've done a pretty good job with that already".</div>
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Today's favourite bits</div>
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JC: the off-roading bit</div>
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JH: going along the canals and seeing the variety of the canal environment, particularly how different people embrace it differently</div>
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JR: arriving after a hard day's navigation! Otherwise the Lune aqueduct</div>
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Today's stats</div>
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Distance: 64 miles</div>
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Average speed 10.8 (max 33.9)</div>
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Climb: 780 m</div>
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Energy: 2931 cals</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-50586432732163906452014-09-14T09:06:00.000+01:002014-09-15T09:09:47.517+01:00Southern Route Map<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-83719887563280387302014-09-13T21:11:00.001+01:002014-09-15T09:32:11.022+01:00The Lakes<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 9 Saturday 13th Sept</div>
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A long long day. To summarise; morning good, afternoon bad, evening good.</div>
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It's going to be a short one today as we were all so tired last night that we just crashed out after food, so I'm writing this hurriedly at breakfast. Also - especially for Pete, look out for the Southern Route Map, which Wifeypedia should be putting up shortly.</div>
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Yesterday we left the hotel after a good breakfast and headed straight for a shop for the days food. Whilst waiting with the bikes and kit outside, John H had some strange experiences, being approached by one guy who offered to knick one of the bikes, and then heard a rap ring tone which, on turning round, he could see was coming from an old lady's phone!</div>
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The route out of Carlisle was straightforward and then took us towards the eastern edge of the lake district over a rolling gently rising landscape with small villages in a spiders web of roads. The early mist was clearing and the sun was out so we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. A potential problem raised itself when we passed a sign warning us that a bridge ahead was closed. We gambled that it would be open for pedestrians at the least and pressed on. Sure enough, it was! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Bridge closure Hesket Newmarket - but not for cyclists!</span></td></tr>
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We continued, the road steepening and up onto the shoulder of Carrock Fell, now in high moorland with marauding sheep, mountain bikers and scattered with walkers cars. We gradually descended into a high valley with small settlements and glimpsing occasional views in to Skiddaw forest. It was along this stretch that John H saw 2 red squirrels and John C and I saw 1. We eventually descended to the A66 on a separated cycle lane, then turned off towards Thirlmere with glorious views behind (a bit risky on a bike!) of Saddleback and Skiddaw. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Route past Carrock Fell</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Saddle Back in the background</span></td></tr>
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We lunched at a picnic site amongst trees and mountains, then headed on round Thirlmere on a minor road around its west side. This was a beautiful route, the road nearly perfectly contouring round the lake with a good surface, virtually no traffic and fabulous views across the water to Helvellyn. The walls at the sides of the roads were wonderfully detailed, merging seamlessly with natural outcrops of rock and with shaped stone gate posts; clearly a work of great care. </div>
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Then on to the main road to Grasmere, initially this was great with a superb descent where we all recorded or maximum speeds, then on to Ambleside which was chaotic and boisterous. Beyond Ambleside the road became increasingly busy, making the route to Windermere a bit of an unpleasant grind. We turned off into Windermere and found a nice cafe to have a round of hot chocolates before heading on to Kendal. In the outskirts of the town we decided to use John Cs Garmin to navigate us through and on to the new route to our night's accommodation. We realised shortly that the device must have a sense of humour, as it immediately took us as high up as possible; at each junction, where there was an 'up' choice, that was the one it took! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">A worn out old JR in Windermere</td></tr>
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JR and turbines at High Fell near Kendal</div>
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We eventually ended up on the road to Kirkby Lonsdale. This, however, proved to be very up and down, so we peered at our maps and worked out a slightly less direct route on minor roads; this proved to be a great find as it took us back into the quiet where we could enjoy views across to the Yorkshire Dales in the evening light. </div>
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With lights on we eventually rolled through a bustling Kirkby, then up the hill on the other side and in to the very welcoming <a href="http://www.whoophall.co.uk/" target="_blank">Whoop Hall</a>. We can thoroughly recommend this place for food, atmosphere and accommodation. The staff have been very helpful and welcoming to a bunch of bedraggled cyclists - even the bikes got a 5 star billet in the ballroom!. As we were being shown to our room, we were wolf-whistled by a group of jolly ladies! Certainly a first for me....</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The boys on the razz after a hard day in Cumbria</td></tr>
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John C's fondness for cycling, we've found, doesn't just extend to his shorts; he is increasingly reluctant to let go of <span style="text-align: center;">his bike whenever we stop. To be fair, we've subsequently found this is due to a cleat malfunction, but he may just have manufactured that as an excuse....</span></div>
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John H's Quote of the day. "At school, in Geography, I learnt that the valleys were the lows and the hills were the highs, but as a cyclist I find that valleys are highs and hills are lows!"</div>
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Favourite moments</div>
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JC: the evening light and scenery as we did the last 10 miles between Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale</div>
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JH: Seeing two red squirrels on the route round Carrock Fell towards the back of Skiddaw</div>
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JR: going round Thirlmere on the quiet, western, side. Beautiful road, beautiful scenery, lovely ride.</div>
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Today's stats</div>
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Total distance 70 miles</div>
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Average speed 10.7 (max 38.6)</div>
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Total climb 1683 m</div>
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Energy 3962 cals</div>
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Bananas</div>
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JC 2</div>
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JH 2</div>
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JR 2</div>
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Very equanimious today !</div>
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-74043033287463347512014-09-12T23:55:00.000+01:002014-09-16T23:56:46.705+01:00Half way<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 8 Friday 12th Sept</div>
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I'm a bit late with the blog tonight as we've just spent a very stressful evening trying to sort out accommodation for tomorrow. For one reason and another we hadn't yet sorted this out; tonight was crunch night and it took us a fair while to get somewhere. Sometimes call centres with people who don't know the geography of this country very well are more trouble than they're worth; John C at one point had to explain that getting 2 rooms 30 miles apart was not of any use to us. So prize for most patient person of the day goes to John C. </div>
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We eventually managed to get a late cancellation at Hoope Hall, Kirkby Lonsdale, which by some coincidence is where we stayed 10 years ago at the halfway point.</div>
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For us, this time, today was our halfway point, not only in time (day 8 of 16), but also in distance (total about 560 miles by day's end). It was also expected to be an 'easy' day of 'only' 55 miles. The fact that we found it so is in part a reflection of the last three days which have been very hard. It was also the day that we left Scotland behind, very sad for us all as it has been 'spectacular'! However, the end also now seems a real possibility as we venture in to England.</div>
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We had a relaxed morning in the hotel, having breakfast at 8 am and somewhat surprised at how alert our host was considering his level of 'jollity' the previous evening! We caught up with some routing details and the blog over coffee and eventually left at about 10:30 am, winding through quiet countryside in grey morning light, at one point catching site of a Red Kite circling low in the trees at the road side; they are big birds seen close to. </div>
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We reached the top of a moderate climb (at which we consumed the last of Tracey's beetroot flapjacks, see recipe below, which John had found hidden in his bag - thanks Tracey, they were brilliant!), then descended fast together to the outskirts of Dumfries, picking up NCR7 which took us along the river side to the centre of the town. It is a town with a slightly careworn appearance, although the red sandstone of the older and civic buildings give it a bit of grander. We picked up some more food (surprise!) before heading out along the river and into the agricultural heart of the area. Somehow we picked up a tailwind despite the forecast of southerlies (we were heading east at this point) and made good progress, eventually stopping at Cummertrees near Annan for lunch in a very nice Church gateway (cool stone benches quite nice for slightly saddle sore cyclists ...). Here a very strange scene unfolded in front of us; tractor after tractor, each towing a muck spreader, charged past us. Wild theories abounded; a secret race (the 'where there's muck there's brass Grand Prix' perhaps?), or perhaps there was a giant pile of muck blocking the road ahead, or was it just followers of this blog trying to get a mention ..... whatever it was, it kept us amused and bemused throughout lunch.</div>
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JR and John C at last pub before border in Gretna Green</div>
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Lunch consumed we headed on to Annan, recognising the route from 10 years ago when we had been almost beaten to a standstill by ferocious headwinds. At Annan we had a brief chat and exchange of good wishes with the support team of a group of 14 cyclists doing a LEJOG, who we then passed shouting encouragement further into the town. Very uplifting to see others on a similar endeavour.</div>
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Then in to Gretna, which has become horribly commercialised, for a hot chocolate break and photos at the border. We then picked out a route with little traffic but dominated by traffic noise as it ran right next to the M6, then on to properly quiet roads guided by NCR7 again towards Carlisle. We briefly tried to help some lost cyclists relying overly on their GPS device to find their way (not helped, to be honest, by the plethora of NCR7 options in the area).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">JR racing the M6 traffic just after crossing the border!</span></td></tr>
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A cyclist scrum - trying to read the map for a lost couple</div>
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Our arrival in Carlisle was only slightly spoiled by the way that the cycle route just suddenly stopped at a junction, but we eventually found our Travelodge without trouble. The great thing about Travelodges is that they let you take your bike into the room. Unpacking, showers, clothes washing and then food took us to 9 pm, after which we spent all that frustrating time mentioned at the top in the Travelodge Cafe bar. Just as we were winding down from getting Tomorrow's (Sat) accommodation sorted, Sue Pollard walked in! She'd just finished a one night show in town (we'd seen posters on the way in). Tomorrow Durham for her apparently. We briefly discussed the truly terrible Piranha film that was on in the Cafe, told her about our ride, then headed off to sleep (or in my case to write this) with her good wishes for the days to come.</div>
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Bike safely in residence at Carlisle Travelodge</div>
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Anecdote of the day:</div>
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As we came into Gretna, JR found himself in front of a set of traffic lights at a cross roads, unable to see what phase they were at. "Could you tell me when they go green?" was the request. "Are you sure that's wise after chocolategate" was the response .....</div>
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Quote of the day</div>
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John H as we started the day: "it's a long way to Lands End!"</div>
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John H's four things, stated just after arriving at the hotel</div>
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1. The hotel is really nice</div>
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2. There's a hidden floor in the hotel which you only find when using the stairs</div>
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3. The bike stickers are brilliant and make my bike look really professional (a work colleague had produced some stickers for his bike frame that say 'John H ... JOGLE 2014)</div>
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4. Evan after all this cycling I'm putting on weight!!</div>
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Favourite moments</div>
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John H: crossing the border in to England</div>
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John C: cheering on a group of 14 LEJOG riders near Annan, having spoken with their support team in Annan</div>
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JR: Red Kite soaring over the fields just outside Moniaive</div>
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Stats of the day</div>
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Distance 55</div>
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Average speed 12.4 (max 25.9)</div>
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Total climb 596 m</div>
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Calories 2684 cals (Johns Garmin is back up)</div>
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Bananas</div>
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John C 1 </div>
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John H 1</div>
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JR 1</div>
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Shows what an easy day it was ...</div>
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-14370751954915670612014-09-11T23:35:00.000+01:002014-09-12T23:41:23.194+01:00Our longest and highest day so far<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 7 Thursday 11th September</div>
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We rose at 7 am and, with deer feeding just outside, had a sparse breakfast, from our bits and bobs since the hostel breakfast was too late for our needs. Again we managed to pack up and get out in about an hour, leaving the hostel at 8:10 am (John H left a little earlier) aiming to get to Brodick, 15 miles away, in time for the 9:45 ferry to the mainland. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Breakfast with deer in the background</span></td></tr>
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We set out in a diaphanous mist, with the peaks around us and sun making only brief appearances as we climbed a steep gradient out of Lochranza. More deer on the way out of the village, almost oblivious to our presence, included a few stags. We crested the pass together and headed down on a wonderfully smooth new road surface to the coast, then headed on towards Brodick. At Corrie I couldn't help but notice the outcrops of red sandstone with beautifully displayed aeolian dune cross-bedding (sorry, I can't turn of my inner Geologist). </div>
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On the way out of Lochranza this morning</div>
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As we headed round the coast we saw the incoming ferry out to sea (where else!), but as Brodick also came into view could see one there too. We were a bit puzzled by this and headed on with renewed vigour. We arrived just after the ferry that was in left and the incoming one was docking. Soon all was explained as we met another cyclist in the queue who had been there since 8 am. He had been there for the first ferry only to find it cancelled due to low tide! The ferry we had seen docked had earlier had to wait off until the tide came in enough to allow it to dock. It did not take on passengers and whilst 'our' ferry was embarking waited off.<br />
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We had a second breakfast on the ferry during a month crossing with very little to see due to the generally murky conditions. On arrival, it was straight to the shop for food, which included a few unusual items today!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Cyclist's shopping - <span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Whisky to celebrate 500 miles!</span></td></tr>
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The cyclist we had met in Brodick turned out to be going our way, so as a group of 4 we headed out along NCR73. This proved to be a well marked and constructed rout, initially going along the esplanade in Ardrossan. We eventually separated in Irvine, he heading on to Glasgow after a 3 week tour of the islands. We were off into agricultural Aryshire under increasingly sunny skies. Generally climbing until we reached Stair on the river Ayr where we joined up with our LEJOG route of 10 years ago. Very different weather conditions; then we were chased and caught by a massive rain storm, today we were being gently boiled. We pressed on well past normal lunch time, fuelled by our second breakfast, eventually stopping at a bridge suitable to lay out lunch and sit on. We ate whilst a very industrious lady did some severe pruning in her garden next to the bridge, wishing us luck on our journey as we departed. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Outside the Stair Inn, lunch stop on LEJOG 10 years ago</span></td></tr>
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Now it was steady climbing in to the Southern Uplands (no surprise, given the name). Agricultural land gave way to to high moorland and beyond the bleak Dalmellington, increasingly remote and under darker skies. At this point we were going up the Doon valley (ha ha!) eventually passing Loch Doon before turning off towards Moniaive. The final road climbed a meandering route over bleak moreland populated by sheep who were clearly not used to cyclists. Several stretches with absolutely awful surface conditions (imagine riding over corrugated iron) we termed 'the Lejog memorial road surface' - (if Pete is reading this, he'll know what we mean). Then we were over the top, at 309 m our highest point so far, and descending through trees and then fields, finally arriving at 18:15!</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDx5aaVCDY3_t5HMtAioi6BjDnD-jPDiI2opHgTMs9AHLv2rJ8VbRGXI7PO4VlTqCLZjkfUQGYQ6h2KhPQVepDBA-B_6KkMUmi1zcvh0kMCRZUaSPxasaBvJh0bJTqm-1O6fJekBqg85Cc/s1600/photo8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDx5aaVCDY3_t5HMtAioi6BjDnD-jPDiI2opHgTMs9AHLv2rJ8VbRGXI7PO4VlTqCLZjkfUQGYQ6h2KhPQVepDBA-B_6KkMUmi1zcvh0kMCRZUaSPxasaBvJh0bJTqm-1O6fJekBqg85Cc/s1600/photo8.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Sun over Loch Doon - </span><span style="font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">This was our view late<br />afternoon as we climbed into the southern uplands</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZKvt9tVcRgCEfJjRyo_Faw3wqy7y8oJCAZTtxH3g3NdlcI93QYxgCMoSgxR0HkKhTvQ0O7fk-uwEwl7zu3Cm0yjjFD2cYr_q634WPZs1x409H5zySTQnR8FEAtGoizmeOxg2duTBCl9e/s1600/image-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZKvt9tVcRgCEfJjRyo_Faw3wqy7y8oJCAZTtxH3g3NdlcI93QYxgCMoSgxR0HkKhTvQ0O7fk-uwEwl7zu3Cm0yjjFD2cYr_q634WPZs1x409H5zySTQnR8FEAtGoizmeOxg2duTBCl9e/s1600/image-3.jpeg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Climb leaving river Doon behind us</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.craigdarrocharmshotel.co.uk/" target="_blank">The Craigdarroch Arms</a> is a great place with very friendly host, nice rooms, good food. Definitely to be recommended. The evening was spent in the company of one of John Hs and JR's Reading University friends, Kim, who we had not seen for 30 years and now lives relatively nearby (near Newton Stewart). A great evening of reminiscence and current affairs, with the hotel host almost embroiling us in a yes/no debate at the end...</div>
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An idle observation. Roadside debris seems to included an inordinate number of rubber gloves and Wellington boots. Why? Who? John C has actually been considering collecting some of the gloves for his gardening needs...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IXF4keSwUmP-8jopc2yg2QkRu0sxKRzImypa73Z-ofb7rqghz0MRwvtLygKLOB8-1_NSiY6YGizNr2BykfT3wGs81nSr86VpwY5Ts3ZNSY1orLiwCSEIjc_piJlGYPk8ogV9jcWIKuxb/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IXF4keSwUmP-8jopc2yg2QkRu0sxKRzImypa73Z-ofb7rqghz0MRwvtLygKLOB8-1_NSiY6YGizNr2BykfT3wGs81nSr86VpwY5Ts3ZNSY1orLiwCSEIjc_piJlGYPk8ogV9jcWIKuxb/s1600/image.jpeg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Reunited after 30 Years with Kim Watson (Dawson)</span></td></tr>
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Quote of the day. JR : "at least the water here is running downhill". John C "what's unusual about that?" (explanation: sometimes it's difficult to judge the slope of the land, what I should have said was that the water was running the same that we were travelling, so we were going gradually downhill...)</div>
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Near miss incident of the day (not us); the lorry coming off the Arran ferry that came within a few inches of driving into an overhang on the boat.</div>
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Chocolategate! JR failed to get John C some hot chocolate from a petrol station in Dalmellington. He's not forgiven me yet.</div>
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Favourite moments:</div>
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John H the misty morning coming out of Lochranza</div>
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John C meeting up with the 10 year route at Stair Inn</div>
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JR glimpses of Goat Fell through the mist on Arran</div>
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Stats for the day</div>
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Distance 80 miles</div>
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Average speed 12 (max 39.7)</div>
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Total climb 1218m</div>
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Energy - no idea as John Cs Garmin did not work today. Based on previous days, probably 4000 cals</div>
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Bananas:</div>
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John C 3</div>
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John H 2</div>
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JR 2</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-80517392318854817542014-09-10T23:45:00.002+01:002014-09-10T23:45:54.092+01:00Something to whet your appetite<strong style="font-family: Helvetica;">Beetroot and Raspberry Flapjacks</strong><br />
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A recipe? Well - since these helped the guys over their first few days, we thought you might be interested. These were inspired by eating beetroot flapjacks made by the same company that does the beetroot shots when we were at the Festival of Cycling at the start of the Tour De France in Yorkshire. In a market of overly sweetened and flavoured “energy bars’, these stood out as gently sweet and very tasty. This version can be made less sweet still by varying the sugar, though I’d suggest leaving the golden syrup in, as this seems to help the beetroot juice thicken to hold the mixture together. The addition of the raspberries was due to having some ready and handy in the garden, but the add a really nice fruity note that’s worth including, though tart apple would also do the job.<br />
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<b style="font-family: Times;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ingredients</span></b><b><br /></b>150g organic butter<br />
50g demerara sugar<br />
3 tablespoons golden syrup<br />
100ml bottle of beetroot drink<br />
150g raw beetroot, peeled and grated (best done on a plate in the sink to avoid redecorating the kitchen)<br />
100g raspberries<br />
250g porridge oats<br />
100g medium oatmeal<br />
3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds<br />
3 tablespoons sunflower seeds<br />
2 tbsp sultanas or raisins<br />
Zest of 1 lemon.<br />
2 tsps cinnamon<br />
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<b>Method:</b><br />
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6<br />
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Heat the butter, sugar, beetroot liquid and syrup in a saucepan over a low heat and stir until all melted and combined.<br />
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Add oatmeal and simmer until it thickens.<br />
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Remove from the heat and stir in the grated beetroot, oats, seeds, sultanas, cinnamon and lemon zest. Mix thoroughly and push into a 30x20cm (12” x 8”) tin.<br />
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Bake in the centre of the oven for about 20 minutes or until lightly golden brown on the edges.<br />
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Mark out the squares while it’s still hot, then leave to cool. When it’s cool, remove from the tin, cut into the squares and refrigerate in an airtight container. In theory they should keep for about a week in the fridge.<br />
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If you want them for a long cycle ride like our boys, once they have cooled a little, break them up into squares then spread these out between 2 baking sheets and return to a low oven for around 20 minutes to dry them out more. This will extend the “pannier life”, and also make them more chewy, but they will soften up as they take in moisture over a few days.</div>
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Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-69483682116908306852014-09-10T21:14:00.000+01:002014-09-10T23:59:53.924+01:00Safely on Arran Though Missing A Few Things - and still no trains...<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The guys are safely on Arran, and enjoying the luxury of a 3 bed, ensuite room at the <a href="https://www.syha.org.uk/where-to-stay/islands/lochranza.aspx" target="_blank">Lochranza Youth Hostel</a> - as are the rest of the inhabitants who don't have to share a bedroom with their socks...<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A tip if you are booking this youth hostel and maybe others - several sites come up on Google before the SHYA site, and those others charge extra, so make sure you go through the official booking process. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The guys just sent their report through, so here it is...</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zPVA8Rd2GeVgu1-ifbgta1EPtINnr7NMHAjXTxLvvDhTYCJG1ZFXoAjaQchSad3-oZChVkDnZ2Q9RtJuECOxHou2dePc2VHpnizD0cHRjY2Aii5tdGNdMnmUwRCGJQzVBUvYwWik8UhF/s1600/image-7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zPVA8Rd2GeVgu1-ifbgta1EPtINnr7NMHAjXTxLvvDhTYCJG1ZFXoAjaQchSad3-oZChVkDnZ2Q9RtJuECOxHou2dePc2VHpnizD0cHRjY2Aii5tdGNdMnmUwRCGJQzVBUvYwWik8UhF/s1600/image-7.jpeg" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Another "spectacular" view!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1CNFtrp9_HJW5HA0NPFiuugvbikvbayL1wLoJkl_kfrnLplOtVe3jswwH9P1Om-fmIhu4xNt-STNhw-Q7DTJAwiZ2eSIpxxJdgOZCdQU5CrbRIvyU_1I1RIQp2pYxLLmMkuD2FGOxMM5/s1600/image-10.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1CNFtrp9_HJW5HA0NPFiuugvbikvbayL1wLoJkl_kfrnLplOtVe3jswwH9P1Om-fmIhu4xNt-STNhw-Q7DTJAwiZ2eSIpxxJdgOZCdQU5CrbRIvyU_1I1RIQp2pYxLLmMkuD2FGOxMM5/s1600/image-10.jpeg" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Waiting for ferry to Arran</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day 6, Wednesday 10th Sept</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />'A tale of trains, chains, shorts and sunshine'</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />Today the weather definitely lived up to its forecast. Although there was a slight chill in the air, we were warmed throughout the day by the sun. When the weather is like it was today, everything looks a lot different and the scenery we were coming through today could have been somewhere in the south of France.<br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a fine hostel breakfast we were out at 9 am and immediately onto the most important act of the day; finding some food! The day ahead always feels better when we have food on board, and this we managed before leaving Oban.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />We'd made another tricky decision in the morning. Our original route for the day was to have taken us east briefly before coming down the qui</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">et road at the side of Loch Awe. The plan B route was to use the main A road heading straight south out of Oban, a route likely to be about 10 miles shorter. A general feeling of fatigue amongst the team lead us to go with plan B today.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although we were missing out on Loch Awe, one of Scotland's most picturesque, we were following the coast south of Oban, which is scattered with delightful coves and small islands and has a beauty of its own, so we don't feel that we missed out.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />At this point of the trip I feel that it worth examining the mind of the cyclist in the morning. As you set off, you run through a mental check list. What hurts (or perhaps that should be, what doesn't hurt)? Did the the same things hurt yesterday? If so, is it worse or better today? If not, does it feel minor or potentially major? Then the first hill comes, and a whole new set of body parts make themselves known; your brain goes through the same questions for each of these. Normally, after the first hour, most of the body has settled in and you are just working out what you need to do to make things not hurt so much. But then the body plays tricks on you, parts you didn't know had muscles twinge suddenly or take to throbbing gently, giving something new to worry about. All this worry, however, disappears in a moment with a glimpse of a view, or the sight of a deer, the sound of a stream, or the thrill of a sweeping downhill bend .....</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />Needless to say, there were many spectacular views today (we know this because we saw the signs!). The land was green, full of trees and heather or grass and sheep, with yaughts clustered in bay after bay. Much more agricultural, and for the first time the No's outnumbered the Yes's. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />We had the first major bike problem along this stretch today. John H broke his chain on a hill. Basically the joining link on his new chain separated and the chain itself became seriously tangled up with his back wheel. Unfortunately, John C and I were a bit ahead of John H at this point and didn't notice his phone message until 4 miles and a couple of climbs further down the road! Once we got the message (phone reception was terrible, so we couldn't call back) we turned round and headed back, only to come across John 4 miles back, having just finished untangling and fixing the chain, fully operational again (well done John). We turned around age an and headed back south, stopping for an early lunch with splendid views of the coast and distant misty mountains. Then off again, heading to Kilmartin, where we joined up with our original intended route. Kilmartin is a very interesting place; it is situated at the head of a south-facing valley of lush agricultural land, bound on both sides by mountainous ridges. The view from the village itself is special. There are many monuments in the area, including stone circles, whic suggest it has been a place of civilisation for thousands of years. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Running repairs on John H's bike (2nd of 3 for the day)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After Kilmartin, we picked up NCR78 which took us on a quiet straight road across a broad, flat salt marsh to Crinan, where we picked up and followed the Crinan Canal, using its towpath to take us all the way to Lochgilphead. The canal was a serene and beautiful route. The surface variable, but mostly good. It was along this stretch that something a bit inexplicable happened: both John H and I heard John C say 'ooo-ooo trains'. On asking him about this, he could not remember saying this, but couldn't explain what he had said. Needless to say, we have since had many bouts of hilarity at his expense, and John C has been very patient with us about it!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;">Quiet section along the Crinan Canal, but no trains</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At Lochgilphead we also managed to solve another of the day's problems. John C had left his two best and favourite cycling shorts in the drying room at Oban Youth Hostel (he's very fond of them, but won't tell me their names ...). After asking a passerby (yes you got that correctly, blokes asking for directions!) we found the cycle shop in the town and John C is now the proud owner of two new pairs of cycling shorts. In the mean time Oban hostel will be posting Johns old favourites back home.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />From Lochgilphead we headed down the banks of Loch Fyne on the main road, which was a bit busy with lorries, with a head wind forcing us to keep together and swap turns at the front. As we turned off towards West Loch Tarbert we realised that we had a chance of catching the 17:50 ferry to Arran. We needed to do the last 5 miles in half an hour. Unfortunately there was a 170m climb in the way and we were a bit knackered. But we gave it a go, and it is a great testament to the group that we made it with 5 minutes to spare, letting out a few quite celebratory noises as we came over the last ridge to see the ferry still on its way in. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />So on to the ferry we went and enjoyed the trip across to Arran in the glorious evening sunshine and blue skies. Thence to Lochranza hostel and food again!<br />John H anecdote of the day. Yesterday evening, whilst we were sorting out things to wash, John lost track of that day's socks. As you can imagine, after nearly a week of cycling, our shoes are getting a little intense, so the socks definitely needed a wash. In the end he gave up looking. He found them this morning in his cycle helmet!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />Senior moment of the day. John C started talking about how we coped with turning 50, since he would be doing the same in 4 months. Then John H pointed out that John C was still 'only' 48 .....</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />Favourite moments of the day:<br />John H - fixing his chain!<br />John C - views from the Arran ferry in the evening sun<br />JR - seeing Oban in the sun (after a family holiday many many years ago based in Oban where it rained for almost the entire 2 weeks).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stats of the day</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Distance: 73 miles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Average speed: 11.7 (max 34.7)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Total climb: 1281m</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Energy: 4000 cals</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John C bananas 4</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John H bananas 3</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">JR bananas 2 </span></div>
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Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-71091599718579953602014-09-09T23:04:00.001+01:002014-09-10T23:34:18.737+01:00Three ferries and a dose of realityFor tonight's entry, Wifeypedia has provided me with a spectacular list of alternative words to use instead of the word .. Spectacular .. So watch out for their gratuitous use throughout ....<br />
Today was always going to be tricky, with a long day's cycling interwoven with 3 essential ferry trips, the first off Skye and on to the mainland, the second and third on to and then off Mull. The ambition was to cross over to Mull from the Ardrossan peninsula to Tobermory, then to cycle 20 odd miles on Mull to catch the ferry off Mull to Oban, where we were booked in to the SYHA hostel for the night. To do this we needed to reach Salen on the banks of Loch Sunart by 12:30 to know that we had the time to reach the Tobermory ferry, because once we committed to the Ardrossan road, there were no alternatives; if we missed the 15:15 ferry then we would not reach Oban. So it was with some disappointment that, when we rolled up at Salen at 13:10 we had to change our plans. We had not been able to cover the distance in the time we had allowed. The climbs had been too hard and, due to my mistake during planning, we actually had about 8 more miles to do than I had thought. So this was our dose of reality.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">JR stretching after tough ascent - not trying to push over passing place sign<br />(honest!)<br /></span></td></tr>
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Plan B, was to cycle to the Lochaline ferry instead, giving us more time to play with as the distance to cycle on Mull would only be 5 miles; a disappointment as it would not be the most interesting part of Mull! This we managed to do successfully, although we arrived in Oban Hostel rather late, which is in turn why this entry is a bit short and late!<br />
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Despite all the timing problems, we enjoyed the day. scenery was again spectac..... sorry, impressive. Initially, south of Mallaig, it was rolling and green with amazing rock patterns revealed in the roadside cuttings. Geologically, with my trained eye, I can tell you that the rocks here are all messed up, and that is the best summary of them!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">John H at top of climb over to Loch Shiel</span></td></tr>
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After a brief interlude of the genteel chocolate box beauty of Loch Sheil, we moved into the grandure of the Moidart mountains. Then on again to the shores of loch Sunart, which the route took us around a large part of. The road here ran through thick trees and across many gurgling brooks. The road rose and fell in swoops initially before (thankfully) flattening out around the loch head. Then one final big climb (270 m) out and over to Lochaline through more stunning mountains.<br />
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As we cycled around Loch Sunart, it was quite frustrating, because we could see our road on the other side, but knew that we had another 15 miles to go to get there. We even considered hijacking a boat and rowing ourselves and our bikes over!<br />
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The day was topped off by the stunningly beautiful sunset we saw from the Oban ferry over Mull.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">On ferry to Mull</td></tr>
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Quote of the day. John H on waking up; " I dreamt loads last night .... Must be the lack of Whisky"<br />
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John C moments. Comments on the difficulty of separating liquids and solids whilst on the long drop (composting toilet). This trip is very much about back to basics....<br />
Proudest moment: Racing and beating an unladen mountain biker up a hill in the morning.<br />
Biggest regret of the day: Racing and beating an unladen mountain biker up a hill in the morning.<br />
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JR moment: bad route planning. Somehow missed 10 miles of road and (according to John H) 500 m of climb in the days route! First senior moment (that I can remember, that is).<br />
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John H moment. Missing the ferry to Mull by 1 minute 20 seconds (would friends really time such a thing!). Fortunately the next ferry to Mull allowed us to still catch the last ferry off Mull to Oban, otherwise he would not be hearing the end of it for the rest of trip... To be fair he thought it required prior booking of the tickets, so thought we had no chance anyway.<br />
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Amusing anecdote of the day, this time on John C (as author I filter out any of mine). After owning his iPhone for 2 years, finally finding out how to turn on his camera properly (lesson from John H)<br />
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Highlights of the day<br />
John H; sunset over Mull from the Oban Ferry<br />
John C ; seeing 9 herons within a half mile stretch along Loch Moidart<br />
JR; Moidart mountain scenery<br />
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Stats of the day<br />
Distance: 75 miles<br />
Average speed: 11.5 (max 35.5)<br />
Total climb: 1814 m<br />
Energy: 4211 cals<br />
John C bananas 2<br />
John H bananas 0<br />
JR bananas 0<br />
(basically we ran out of bananas today ....)<br />
<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-20058858468624758042014-09-08T23:40:00.000+01:002014-09-08T23:40:08.855+01:00Friends in the Water<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 4 Monday 8th Sept</div>
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Jeremy blogging on the iPad by firelight</div>
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Tonight I am writing this entry, sat next to a roaring fire outside a 'wigwam' camping hut overlooking the ferry port in Armadale, south Skye. We are staying at <a href="http://www.skyeforestgarden.com/holiday-accommodation" target="_blank">Rubha Phoil Forest gardens</a>, and the lovely owners are supporting us by donating free bedding and allowing us to use their kitchen facilities. Many thanks to them for making us so welcome. This was a great find - Tracey (Mrs Jeremy) had visited here a while back and thought we'd enjoy it as much as she did. Their new camping wigwam hut is perfect for us so it's all worked out rather well.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning on the ferry - dolphins yet to appear</td></tr>
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Anyway, it is pitch dark here apart from our fire and the lights of Armadale. Owls are hooting and midges biting.</div>
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Our morning departure from Harris seems a long time ago now. We got up at 6 am and proved that we can get washed, packed, breakfasted and loaded inside the hour as we turned up at the port ticket office at 7 am to get our passage to Skye. The ferry was in on time and we pulled away from Harris with glorious morning light on the mountains. We stayed on deck for a long time watching the views change as the ferry churned across the water. We eventually went inside for 'second breakfast' and it was whilst we were eating this that John C noticed the dolphins. There were about 6 or 7 in several groups surging and jumping across the ferry's bow waves, coming straight for us. They didn't stay long, but seemed to be having fun! A first for me and John C. The journey was only slightly spoiled by the midge that unwisely had a go at my eye.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeremy in foreground, Cullins in background</td></tr>
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We docked at Uig, immediately noticing its softer, greener landscape. The cycle trip meter on John H's bike had stopped working at some point, so we spent some time trying to sort it out with new batteries etc, to no avail. We moved on, having stocked up with food (of course) at the Uig store. It was sunny, if a bit chilly, and we had a tail wind, almost perfect cycling. The views and scenery were really nice (I've been told not to use spectacular anymore...). </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A "really nice" view</td></tr>
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It seems to me that Skye is split into three as far as the texture of the land goes. The first bit, which Uig is at the northern tip of, is definitely greener than Harris and has low hills, many of which are flat topped - there's some interesting Geology going on, but that's for another time. Then there's the middle bit; this is all majestic mountains that dwarf all anthropogenic artefacts. They are barren, rocky monoliths that either have jagged edges or are more rounded (geology is the reason again .... ). The third type is what we have found on the Armadale peninsula; it is lush with trees, plants and colours. The coast is a delightful collection of small bays and islands with the mainland mountains as a backdrop across the water. Definitely to be recommended.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR takes the back road</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John H and Jeremy </td></tr>
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So we spent today wending thought these delights, having lunch next to a minor road that we noticed on the map that gave us some brief respite from the rather busy main road (we've very quickly become used to hardly having any traffic). This gave us idyllic scenery and a chance to enjoy it without worrying about the next lorry or bus. We had a hot chocolate and cake stop in Portree (at The Grannery), where John H also picked up a new cycle trip device. We wound down slowly over the last few miles of the day. As we expected, there were no places to eat, so we cooked the emergency meal that we've been carrying from the start; spaghetti with a tomato sauce and tuna (ethically sourced!). Pronounced delicious by all, but then hunger makes us poor critics.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Man Make Fire!</td></tr>
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Amusing John H anecdote of the day. John was feeling a bit low on energy half way through the day, so whilst I was getting food for the evening meal, I picked up some dough twists, which John enjoyed one of. It had the desired effect, as a few minutes later as we headed out of Broadford on the last leg of the journey, he shot off, having what he terms a 'Pete moment'; it took John C and I about 8 miles to finally catch him up!</div>
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Highlights today are proving very difficult because there are so many candidates, so these are collective ones:</div>
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Dolphins chasing the Tarbert to Uig ferry in the morning</div>
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Views of Harris and the outer Hebrides from the ferry</div>
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First views of the Cullins coming across Skye</div>
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We found a quiet detour route round the west coast north of Broadford where we had lunch, again with great views.</div>
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Our wigwam camp, in particular the fire pit, which I am sat next to writing this, also the nature walk here from which we saw seals frolicking in the sea as the moon rose over the mountains.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Otter Hide - otters currently hiding!</td></tr>
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Stats for the day</div>
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Distance 61 miles</div>
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Average speed 12.4 (max 37.4)</div>
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Total climb 958 m</div>
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Energy 3124 cal</div>
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John C 3 bananas</div>
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John H 2 bananas</div>
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JR 2 bananas</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-44629776096031328562014-09-07T23:27:00.000+01:002014-09-08T00:48:51.164+01:00The Solution to the Lewis Harris Mystery, and Other Stories<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Day 3, Sunday 7th September</div>
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We started the day in a relaxed mood - no deadlines or targets today as we just need to get the 35 miles to Tarbert in Harris. We were still up at 7:30 though, for a friendly communal breakfast with one of Ullapool's posties who's on a long weekend break. Having done a load of washing we spent some time sorting it and generally re-packing bags - after a few days on the road things tend to get a bit muddled in the panniers.</div>
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We eased out of the Hostel, (very impressed still), at 10 am and trundled thought the quiet deserted streets of Stornaway. We were then joined by our room mate from last night, a young Swedish lad who is touring the islands after finishing Uni. He joined us for the first part of the ride as we used a route in parkland that went past a typical Scottish Castle and through woodlands on small roads and tracks. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectacular views all the way today</td></tr>
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Amusing anecdote of the day (again at John H's expense). During our ride through the parkland in Stornaway, we came across a section of off-road mountain bike track, complete with cambered turns and jumps. "hey, you should have a go" says John H to John C. "alright then" said John C in what he thought was clearly a sarcastic manner. We didn't see John H for a while, and when he eventually caught up with us, explained that he had be waiting at the bottom of the track expectantly, camera ready, for John C to appear ... John H's defence is that is exactly the sort of thing John C would have done in his younger days ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road goes ever on...</td></tr>
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We eventually emerged on the main road south and headed off across Lewis. The landscape is bleak, rolling, with many lakes, peat and bare rock, power lines and phone cables criss crossing the skyline, punctuated by wind turbines. We came across our first 'No' billboard at the roadside, in a massive minority to the many many 'Yes' posters, billboards, stickers and flags we have seen over the last few days. Our Swedish friend (who is young enough to be surprised that we had to train for this ride) left us to head to Aird Uig as the mountains of North Harris were beginning to loom on the horizon. We had a tail wind for most of the morning, but it was cold. We briefly stopped for cake and hot drinks at a memorial to Bonnie Prince Charlie (the memories are long here) overlooking the end of Loch Seaforth, sheltering in a bus stop. I put on an extra pair of socks, it was so cold.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So now you know where it is!</td></tr>
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Where Lewis ends and Harris starts has always been a mystery to me; now solved as we passed the 'Welcome to Harris' sign just north of Aird a' Mhulaid (you'll have to look it up on a map). This was just before our major climb of the day (257 m) into the spectacular mountains of North Harris. The climb was good, not too steep, with spectacular views across Seaforth Loch on the way up and more amazing views of the mountains when up. The scenery here, in contrast to Lewis, feels big. The high valleys are textbook U valleys with small lochs and peat interspersed with bare rock. The descent was spectacular as we lost all of our gained height in one go and stopped, 3 miles from Tarbert, to have lunch and enjoy the stunning vista across West Loch Tarbert to the mountains. The descent brought a moment of concern to John C and I as we watched John H, who had stopped for photos higher up, come swooping down the fastest bit at the same time as a car on a side road approached a junction at the bottom of the hill. "Has the driver seen John?", we both thought at the same time. The actual junction was hidden from view so we waited anxiously until John appeared safe and sound a few seconds later.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the downs </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch tastes better with a view like this</td></tr>
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After lunch we headed on to Tarbert, which has an impressive new school, and immediately found the <a href="http://thebackpackersstop.yolasite.com/">Backpackers Stop</a>. This is an<span style="text-align: center;">other place to be highly recommended, with all of the facilities, comfy beds (I hope as I’m writing this in advance of my night’s sleep!) and very close to the Ferry port which will be useful as we need to catch the 7:30 to Skye tomorrow. We have the place entirely to ourselves which is great for sorting out washing and a relief considering the state of our cycling shoes after days with damp feet in them...</span></div>
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For food we ventured out to the Hebrides Hotel, which is rather nice, and then back to the hostel to catch up with this blog...</div>
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John Cs highlight: the view at the start of the descent to W Loch Tarbert</div>
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John Hs highlight: the big climb away from Loch Seaforth</div>
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JRs highlight: lunch (!) with a view into the North Harris mountains</div>
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Today's stats</div>
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Distance 36 miles</div>
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Average speed 11.3 (max 44.1 on the descent to W Loch Tarbert)</div>
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Total climb 826 m</div>
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Energy expended whilst cycling 1971 cals</div>
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John C 1 banana (yes, we’re surprised too!)</div>
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John H 2 bananas</div>
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JR 1 banana</div>
Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2Tarbert, Argyll and Bute, UK55.863246 -5.4156080000000255.8454255 -5.45594850000002 55.881066499999996 -5.37526750000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-31979045831415733462014-09-06T23:06:00.000+01:002014-09-08T00:49:07.109+01:00Wet Wet WET <div style="font-size: 13px;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day 2, 6th Sept</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">This is a good summary of todays weather!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Quite a day today - the wet West Coast showed us what it could do, though we did get a bit of sun and warmth too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We woke up 6:30 as agreed and crept around quietly getting ready. It had rained hard but was now drizzling. We nipped across to the part of the hostel with the kitchen and helped ourselves to a good breakfast. We had been told that the village shop was open at 8 am, so the idea was for John H to set off half an hour early whilst John C and I got the supplies for the day. All was going to plan until we actually turned up at the Durness Spar, which we found was closed until 9 am on a Saturday. Consternation and a bit of flapping about. Both Sian and Tracey were rung to see if they could locate a likely food place using the internet, but "Wifeypedia" let us down, as they were both busy. No locals around to ask either. So we headed off, somewhat concerned and hopeful that we'd find somewhere despite the apparent miles and miles of barren land shown on the map. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the meantime John H had set off and immediately ran into his own personal hail storm... By the time we were on the way it was just rain, fortunately for us.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The first part of the route headed along the banks of Kyle of Durness </span></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">with the headland of Cape Wrath visible through the mist to our right. It is a big, glaciated landscape with lots of rock that was glistening in the occasional shaft of brightness. The overnight rain meant that every surface was wet and seemed to be leaking water. As we climbed out of the Kyle, we caught sight of John H ahead, clearly waiting to photograph us in action, but also clearly agitated. Then he was on his bike and pedalling off with a cry of "I can't stand the midges anymore!". These annoying tiny critters plagued every stop during the day; they were only missing when it was raining (so we either got bitten or got wet!). The landscape became a massive jumble of rocky, peaty wilderness. Water was everywhere, either as high lochans, rain, or surging streams and rivers. </span><br />
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At least the wind today was kinder, mostly behind us, but vicious when we happened to turn into it, such as for the stretch into Scourie where we are mightily relieved to find an open shop to buy some lunch (the bread turned out to be delicious!). We got back on the road, secure in the knowledge that lunch would be happening, and immediately started to get glimpses of the big mountains of Sutherland ahead. The road here is twin track now, but when short remnants of the old road showed up on the side of the route, I was reminded of my journey going the other way in 1986 on single track with my brother Andrew.<br />
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Castle in the clouds today</div>
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We swept down a descent to fabulous views across the Kylesku bridge which was briefly illuminated by sunshine, before we headed off to the big climb over to Assynt. It is majestic, with the road sweeping across high glaciated valleys and never too steep. We enjoyed the continually changing vistas. Once up we found ourselves on a bit of a plateau as we crossed the huge sloping flank of Quinag. The descent was sharp and we were glad not to be doing it the other way. Loch Assynt was spectacular, with its ruined castle looking placed for visual effect. Then the rain really hit, almost torrential, fortunately driving from behind. Looking for shelter for lunch, we ended up going well past Inchnadamph before the deluge lessened and we came across a wall to shelter behind (cue midges....). Wet and very cold, we huddled round our food, wolfing it down so we could head off as soon as possible. We caught a patch of sunlight which we kept up with for miles, though there were glowering clouds behind and to the front. The spectacular mountains of Canisp and Suilven remained hidden in cloud until we are climbing away past Knockan Crag when we glimpse part of Suilven.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Kylescu bridge in the sun!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">John C at the start of the big climb (270m) over to Assynt</span></td></tr>
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By now it was clear that we were going to get to Ullapool in plenty of time so we took the next few rises and falls a bit more easily. Finally we were sweeping down and in to Ullapool itself, straight for the ferry port to get tickets to Stornaway (£9:15 each), find a fish and chips place (one of Ullapool's highlights) and get some food for the Sunday on Lewis (when everything will be closed).<br />
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We watched the ferry come in with rainbows over the town. Then we were on board, bikes stowed and making ourselves comfortable in the lounge. The crossing was fine, if a bit rough in places, but nothing remarkable, and was eased considerably by a couple of celebratory drams.<br />
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On arrival at 9pm we found the hostel easily and were welcomed in by a very friendly young mum with toddler in tow. <a href="http://www.hebhostel.com/home.html">The Heb Hostel</a> is to be highly recommended, with its comfortable beds, washing facilities, lockable bike shed and kitchen stocked with breakfast goodies.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John Cs highlight of the day, Fish n Chips in Ullapool </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John Hs highlight was the climb over from Kylescu to Assynt</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">JRs highlight was the views across Kylescu - which happen to contain one of his favourite bridges. </span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Yes - he has favourite bridges!)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today's stats</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">JRs cycle trip stopped working due to the wet so these are John Cs</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Distance 70 miles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Average 11.5 (max. 39.5)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Total climb ?1494m</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Energy expended whilst cycling</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> 3796 cals</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">NB. </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">John Cs altimeter went wonky today due to the wet, so the total climb is wrong. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;">The theoretical climb should be 1650 m</span></span></div>
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Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-58137484012417229482014-09-05T23:20:00.000+01:002014-09-07T00:18:31.322+01:00First Full Day - And A Headwind<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Day 1, 5th sept 2014</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">It rained heavily during the night (woke me up), but by the time we woke up it had stopped. Hooray! This time the Johns both slept well, but I didn't, (see afore mentioned rain). I don't think I've slept in a bed with such prominent springs before! Breakfast was free and we were packed and heading off at 8:15. First to the local Co-Op for the days food (which was very good!), then we were off. Initially south before heading west on a minor road. The scenery around Thurso is a little bleak, but is offset by some of the buildings and walls, many of which use the 'Caithness Flagstone' as part of the structure. Both John C and I noticed a barn yesterday that used giant (at least 1 m square) flags for slates. Today it is the field walls we notice are made of the same material. Normally abutting to give thin but very effective functional walls, also more decoratively overlapping.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">This was our view of Ben Loyal on the left and Ben Hope on the right from <br />the Kyle of Tongue road crossing</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-size: 12px;">Gradually the scenery became more and more spectacular as the first big mountains came in to view. The pattern of the day was periodic steep climbs out of the incised terrain. These gradually became bigger through the day. The weather was mostly sunny with a sharp wind, increasing in strength through the day, cold when the sun was hidden. Sadly the wind was in our faces for most of the day, so we were glad to finish, with the miles being harder won than usual. As we were so slow today, we'll have to factor that into tomorrow, and get an early start in case of headwinds, because we have to catch the ferry at Ullapool.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Today's stats</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Distance 70 miles</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Average speed 10.6 (max 39.5)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Total climb 1775m</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Energy approx 4000cals.</span>Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-6531890012910695012014-09-04T21:55:00.004+01:002014-09-08T00:49:21.056+01:00And We're Off!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Day 0, 4th sept 2014, (with a wee bit from the travel day)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">I've doubted my sanity several times about calling this day 'zero' (as have others!...). I suppose during the planning it didn't quite seem like it was going to be a full day of riding in the right direction. It was always going to be a day about getting to the start, the essential achieving the 'JOG' bit of the JOGLE, without which the rest of the trip would just be a 'LE'. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">And so it proved to be..</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">We had a great time on the sleeper train after it pulled out of Euston, having said our goodbyes to Tracey, Andy and Jo. A note for those uninitiated in traveling by sleeper trains: if you have a berth, then the tickets give you the right to use the first class lounge. We availed ourselves of this facility. John H discovered they had some Whisky Miniatures so we decided to try a couple.... As we were to comment later, the advantage of getting older is the extra experience we can bring to a ride like this - we've learnt the things that are and are not good to do..... yet we still do things we shouldn't. Actually, we were very restrained and went to bed at a reasonable time, having decided to get a breakfast on the train.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">We got up just after 7am. John H had not had a good night, but John C and I had. Breakfast was delivered by our guard who informed us we were running a bit late, which became a bit later as we had to wait for a train to pass (as it was single-track) at Dalwhinney, where we had a great view of the Cairngorms, still with patches of snow this year. Eventually we moved off and on to Inverness where we arrived about half an hour late, with a comfortable amount of time until our train to Thurso. It was running and expected to leave on time. Two of us headed out quickly to get some food for the day, then back to get the bikes loaded up (3 turned out to be a bit of a squeeze for the space, but we managed).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">The train journey north was a real mix, a bit hot and stuffy, long, but with some great views. The problems started at Invergordon, where we had to wait for a south-bound train that was running a bit late (single track issues again). Then because we were running late we ended up having to wait 45 mins at Helmsdale. We were then informed that the train was no longer going to go on the spur line to Thurso, but just straight to Wick. Map time! After a quick look we realised that we could get off at Georgemas Junction and still only have about 22 miles to John O'Groats. The only difference would be that we had intended not to carry our full luggage. So this is what we did, leaving Georgemas at 15:15 (with John H managing to bang his, fortunately helmeted, head twice in the platform sign) and heading out across country. We reached JOG just after 5 pm after great views of the Orkney Isles and Dunnet Head. Photos were taken at the Start, which has charged immensely since we were there 10 years ago - much more commercial and corporate. Then off we went, back the way we cam initially, then on the main road. We decided not to go to Dunnet Head as it was getting dark and threatening to rain.As we got close to Thurso, we had to put lights on. John C had retained a remarkably accurate memory of where we were staying, so we got straight there with no fuss by 19:30. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><a href="http://www.sandras-backpackers.co.uk/">Sandra's Backpackers Hostel</a> is a very basic place with worn mattresses but plenty of facilities for the outdoor minded, so on the whole we would recommend it. We headed out for food and ended up at the Bistro on the corner of the main street. Great food, if a little short on portion size (that could just be a cyclist perspective though!). Back to the hostel and straight to bed and sleep.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Stats for the day</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Distance 41 miles</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Average speed 13 mph (max 33)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Total climb 475m</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">Energy expended whilst cycling </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">2000 cals</span>Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-10609127389137742992014-09-03T19:55:00.000+01:002014-09-04T08:25:47.547+01:00The Journey Begins - Sort Of....So we reckon we have started, as we've done 12 miles - which is 1% of the distance, though we've eaten 10% of the food! We all made it to Euston, ready to get on the sleeper to Inverness. We met up at Chutney Restaurant on Drummond Street, and shared a fantastic meal with Jeremy's wife, brother and sister-in-law. The omens are favourable, John C found us by accident as he spotted the other 2 bikes sitting outside the restaurant whilst taking a back-road for a cycle-friendly route to the station.<br />
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Now we just need to get on the train. We've already got the bikes settled in. Should be easier than when we came back from Venice on the sleeper and John C had to sleep with his bike (literally, it was in his bunk)! John H is really excited to have his first "proper" sleeper journey, as he's never been on a UK sleeper, or had the luxury of a 2 birth cabin.<br />
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<br />Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-76362025533009181132014-09-03T12:24:00.003+01:002014-09-03T12:24:36.639+01:00Northern Route MapAs a taster for what is to come, here is our intended route for the Northern part of the route:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le DeTour North</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07730271553532675407noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1255977311700828432.post-52986583793995248552014-09-03T11:09:00.003+01:002014-09-03T11:23:41.231+01:00Le DeTour - 3 Men on a JoggleThis will be the live journal documenting the journey of 3 middle-aged blokes cycling from John O'Groats to Land's End the pretty way. The route takes in some of the islands off the West Coast of Scotland, and is designed to last around 17 days, starting on 4th September 2014.<br />
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We plan to add routing information, maps and photos as well as where we stay so that anyone else who fancies replicating our trip can use the information. It might even be a fun read!Traceyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04590279212740382733noreply@blogger.com0