The Lakes

Day 9 Saturday 13th Sept

A long long day. To summarise; morning good, afternoon bad, evening good.

It's going to be a short one today as we were all so tired last night that we just crashed out after food, so I'm writing this hurriedly at breakfast. Also - especially for Pete, look out for the Southern Route Map, which Wifeypedia should be putting up shortly.

Yesterday we left the hotel after a good breakfast and headed straight for a shop for the days food. Whilst waiting with the bikes and kit outside, John H had some strange experiences, being approached by one guy who offered to knick one of the bikes, and then heard a rap ring tone which, on turning round, he could see was coming from an old lady's phone!

The route out of Carlisle was straightforward and then took us towards the eastern edge of the lake district over a rolling gently rising landscape with small villages in a spiders web of roads. The early mist was clearing and the sun was out so we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. A potential problem raised itself when we passed a sign warning us that a bridge ahead was closed.  We gambled that it would be open for pedestrians at the least and pressed on. Sure enough, it was! 

Bridge closure Hesket Newmarket - but not for cyclists!

We continued, the road steepening and up onto the shoulder of Carrock Fell, now in high moorland with marauding sheep, mountain bikers and scattered with walkers cars. We gradually descended into a high valley with small settlements and glimpsing occasional views in to Skiddaw forest. It was along this stretch that John H saw 2 red squirrels and John C and I saw 1. We eventually descended to the A66 on a separated cycle lane, then turned off towards Thirlmere with glorious views behind (a bit risky on a bike!) of Saddleback and Skiddaw. 

Route past Carrock Fell

Saddle Back in the background

We lunched at a picnic site amongst trees and mountains, then headed on round Thirlmere on a minor road around its west side. This was a beautiful route, the road nearly perfectly contouring round the lake with a good surface, virtually no traffic and fabulous views across the water to Helvellyn. The walls at the sides of the roads were wonderfully detailed, merging seamlessly with natural outcrops of rock and with shaped stone gate posts; clearly a work of great care. 

Thirlmere

Then on to the main road to Grasmere, initially this was great with a superb descent where we all recorded or maximum speeds, then on to Ambleside which was chaotic and boisterous. Beyond Ambleside the road became increasingly busy, making the route to Windermere a bit of an unpleasant grind. We turned off into Windermere and found a nice cafe to have a round of hot chocolates before heading on to Kendal. In the outskirts of the town we decided to use John Cs Garmin to navigate us through and on to the new route to our night's accommodation. We realised shortly that the device must have a sense of humour, as it immediately took us as high up as possible; at each junction, where there was an 'up' choice, that was the one it took! 

A worn out old JR in Windermere

JR and turbines at High Fell near Kendal

We eventually ended up on the road to Kirkby Lonsdale. This, however, proved to be very up and down, so we peered at our maps and worked out a slightly less direct route on minor roads; this proved to be a great find as it took us back into the quiet where we could enjoy views across to the Yorkshire Dales in the evening light. 

With lights on we eventually rolled through a bustling Kirkby, then up the hill on the other side and in to the very welcoming Whoop Hall. We can thoroughly recommend this place for food, atmosphere and accommodation. The staff have been very helpful and welcoming to a bunch of bedraggled cyclists - even the bikes got a 5 star billet in the ballroom!. As we were being shown to our room,  we were wolf-whistled by a group of jolly ladies! Certainly a first for me....

The boys on the razz after a hard day in Cumbria

John C's fondness for cycling, we've found, doesn't just extend to his shorts; he is increasingly reluctant to let go of his bike whenever we stop. To be fair, we've subsequently found this is due to a cleat malfunction, but he may just have manufactured that as an excuse....

John H's Quote of the day. "At school, in Geography, I learnt that the valleys were the lows and the hills were the highs, but as a cyclist I find that valleys are highs and hills are lows!"

Favourite moments

JC: the evening light and scenery as we did the last 10 miles between Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale

JH: Seeing two red squirrels on the route round Carrock Fell towards the back of Skiddaw

JR: going round Thirlmere on the quiet, western, side. Beautiful road, beautiful scenery, lovely ride.

Today's stats

Total distance 70 miles

Average speed 10.7 (max 38.6)

Total climb 1683 m

Energy 3962 cals

Bananas

JC 2

JH 2

JR 2

Very equanimious today !