The Solution to the Lewis Harris Mystery, and Other Stories

Day 3, Sunday 7th September

We started the day in a relaxed mood - no deadlines or targets today as we just need to get the 35 miles to Tarbert in Harris. We were still up at 7:30 though, for a friendly communal breakfast with one of Ullapool's posties who's on a long weekend break. Having done a load of washing we spent some time sorting it and generally re-packing bags - after a few days on the road things tend to get a bit muddled in the panniers.

We eased out of the Hostel, (very impressed still), at 10 am and trundled thought the quiet deserted streets of Stornaway. We were then joined by our room mate from last night, a young Swedish lad who is touring the islands after finishing Uni. He joined us for the first part of the ride as we used a route in parkland that went past a typical Scottish Castle and through woodlands on small roads and tracks. 

Spectacular views all the way today

Amusing anecdote of the day (again at John H's expense). During our ride through the parkland in Stornaway, we came across a section of off-road mountain bike track, complete with cambered turns and jumps. "hey, you should have a go" says John H to John C. "alright then" said John C in what he thought was clearly a sarcastic manner. We didn't see John H for a while, and when he eventually caught up with us, explained that he had be waiting at the bottom of the track expectantly, camera ready, for John C to appear ... John H's defence is that is exactly the sort of thing John C would have done in his younger days ...

The road goes ever on...

We eventually emerged on the main road south and headed off across Lewis. The landscape is bleak, rolling, with many lakes, peat and bare rock, power lines and phone cables criss crossing the skyline, punctuated by wind turbines. We came across our first 'No' billboard at the roadside, in a massive minority to the many many 'Yes' posters, billboards, stickers and flags we have seen over the last few days. Our Swedish friend (who is young enough to be surprised that we had to train for this ride) left us to head to Aird Uig as the mountains of North Harris were beginning to loom on the horizon. We had a tail wind for most of the morning, but it was cold. We briefly stopped for cake and hot drinks at a memorial to Bonnie Prince Charlie (the memories are long here) overlooking the end of Loch Seaforth, sheltering in a bus stop. I put on an extra pair of socks, it was so cold.

So now you know where it is!

Where Lewis ends and Harris starts has always been a mystery to me; now solved as we passed the 'Welcome to Harris' sign just north of Aird a' Mhulaid (you'll have to look it up on a map). This was just before our major climb of the day (257 m) into the spectacular mountains of North Harris. The climb was good, not too steep, with spectacular views across Seaforth Loch on the way up and more amazing views of the mountains when up. The scenery here, in contrast to Lewis, feels big. The high valleys are textbook U valleys with small lochs and peat interspersed with bare rock. The descent was spectacular as we lost all of our gained height in one go and stopped, 3 miles from Tarbert, to have lunch and enjoy the stunning vista across West Loch Tarbert to the mountains. The descent brought a moment of concern to John C and I as we watched John H, who had stopped for photos higher up, come swooping down the fastest bit at the same time as a car on a side road approached a junction at the bottom of the hill. "Has the driver seen John?", we both thought at the same time. The actual junction was hidden from view so we waited anxiously until John appeared safe and sound a few seconds later.

Enjoying the downs 

Lunch tastes better with a view like this

After lunch we headed on to Tarbert, which has an impressive new school, and immediately found the Backpackers Stop. This is another place to be highly recommended, with all of the facilities, comfy beds (I hope as I’m writing this in advance of my night’s sleep!) and very close to the Ferry port which will be useful as we need to catch the 7:30 to Skye tomorrow. We have the place entirely to ourselves which is great for sorting out washing and a relief considering the state of our cycling shoes after days with damp feet in them...

For food we ventured out to the Hebrides Hotel, which is rather nice, and then back to the hostel to catch up with this blog...

John Cs highlight: the view at the start of the descent to W Loch Tarbert

John Hs highlight: the big climb away from Loch Seaforth

JRs highlight: lunch (!) with a view into the North Harris mountains

Today's stats

Distance 36 miles

Average speed 11.3 (max 44.1 on the descent to W Loch Tarbert)

Total climb 826 m

Energy expended whilst cycling 1971 cals

John C 1 banana (yes, we’re surprised too!)

John H 2 bananas

JR 1 banana